The Hill Towns - Guardiagrele

I tried to find how high above sea level this town is but to no avail, let's just say with every twist and turn of the road, we were way the hell up there.  This town sets at the edge of the National Park and the foothills of the Majella mountains (which were trying to peak out of the clouds).  

Relics from the town date back to the 800s, but the church in the main square, Santa Maria Maggiore, was built in the 12th century.

We spent the morning with a local guide, Emiliana, which was wonderful to learn of all the local traditions.  Like these same four men spend every Sunday morning on the same spot outside the church talking local politics (as far back as she can remember).

The breasts of nuns, a local profanity no, it's a traditional desert.  Only two families in town make these cakes from an unknown recipe (of course) handed down from generations.  They are a wonderful sponge cake with custard inside.  The third breast is the handkerchief tucked between, though originally it was thought to have been made after the three mountain peaks, I guess this makes for a better story.

Other local sweets

We wondered through the local market.  When they say they eat local they mean the pasta either you made fresh at home or Maria's she made today from their farm in the next town.  They don't buy Dececco, they say the wheat is imported cheap from Russia.  Maybe a decade ago "super markets" came to town, don't let the word super fool you they are no bigger than a 7 eleven store, but they carry "mass" produced or packaged foods.  They believe this is when they started to see an increase in cancer which rarely existed before. 

Fava beans above, red peppers below

This is another church which they are very proud of because they restored it about twenty years ago with all this gold.  Yes makes you wonder, no money, but the church was restored (thank goodness).

The ceiling

Although Emiliana shared the same sentiments about the government, and the poor local economy, she still has hope for change and that her Italy will find a way to renew itself.  Creativity is in their nature...